The Pinot Family
Pinot Noir is a genetically unstable varietal. New clones, and to a lesser extent, new varietals are not uncommon occurrences in a Pinot Noir vineyard. Strolling through a vineyard of Pinot Noir, one may find one or more plants with single shoots that have characteristics unlike the rest of the wine. If you try to propagate these shoots into new vines, and all the buds on the new plant display the same attributes on the original shoot, then a new clone, or in extreme cases, a new varietal is born.
Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are some of the more successful mutations of Pinot Noir and produce distinct and unique wines on their own. Each differs from its parent, Pinot Noir, in the color of their fruit, and in the case of Pinot Meunier, a noticeable number of white "hairs" on the tip of the shoots. Here are the specifics for the four major Pinot grapes:
Pinot Noir
As the "mother grape" of the Pinot family, the red Pinot Noir grape is perhaps the oldest cultivated varietal of the genus Vitis vinifera, of which the major of the great wine grapes of the world belong too. Although the Romans described the grape as early as the first century, mutations have significantly changed the characteristics of the varietal since that time. There are perhaps as many as 1000 clonel variations in existence today, the majority, not fully documented. These genetic variables, along with the tendency of the grape to dramatically reflect variations in the vintage, and to adopt unique characteristics from the "terroir" from which it grows makes the wines made from this varietal difficult to categorize and describe.
• Region - Pinot Noir is native to France. The varietal presents its best when grown in cool climates with well drained soils. It buds early and ripens early, making it susceptible to frost and unsuited to very warm growing regions. Its genetic instability can present itself if dramatic weather or climate conditions suddenly take place during verasion of the fruit (the ripening and coloring of the skins), creating clusters of berries that may be a mix of both Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.
• Winemaking - Due to its reluctance to release its color during fermentation, it is a common practice to cold soak the Pinot Noir berries first to extract the pigment and tannins. This process is not universally held by all producers and in some regions, the wines can become highly extracted and aggressive in its texture and mouth feel.
• Characteristics - As a general rule, look for aromas of raspberries, cherries, strawberries, cranberries, damp earth, barnyard, sandalwood, violets, truffles or mushrooms, clove, cinnamon and cola as common aromas. Low to moderate grape skin tannins with good acidity mark the tactile qualities of this varietal. Pinot Noir is also a study in subtlety and nuance from the uniqueness of the site in which it grows.
• Synonyms - Pinot Noir goes by many different names in different parts of the world. Here are a few of them:
- France: Pineau de Bouroyne, Franc Pineau, Noirien, Franc Noirien, Salvagnin, Morillon, Auvernat, Auvernaut Noir, Plant Doré, Vert Doré.
- Germany: Burgunder Blauer, Blauer Spätburgunder, Clävner, Blauer-Klävner, Schwarzer Riesling (unrelated to White Riesling), Möhrchen, Schwarzer Burgnder.
- Italy: Pinot Nera
- Austria: Blauer Nümberger
- Hungry: Nagyburgundi
Pinot Gris
Known as the "gray" grape ("gris" meaning gray in French), the skins of the Pinot Gris grape run the spectrum from a light, pale pink to a coppery gray or pinkish brown. This is due to its high level of genetic instability. In the vineyard, clusters can vary with berries of different shades, and individual berries my display a mix of colors on their skins as well. Because of the light pigmentation, white wines are produced form this verietal. In fact, Pinot Gris is the second best selling white varietal in the United States, surpassing Sauvignon Blanc, and gaining on Chardonnay.
• Region - Although widely planted in the cooler growing regions of France, most notably in the Alsace, in the United States, Oregon growers were the ealry producers of this varietal where it has staked its claim as the number one white varietal in the vineyard. In fact, more Pinot Gris is grown in Oregon than all of the rest of the United States. The varietal has also made a name for itself in the Northern Italian regions of Trentino-Alto Adige and Fruili-Venezia-Giulia were its style is lighter in body and flavor than its French and Oregon counterparts.
• Winemaking - Although some variations of the varietal may have a copper or brown look to the skins, there isn't enough pigmentation to consider this varietal for anything but a white wine. Most Pinot Gris are fermented and aged in stainless steel, although some producers have tried to offer this wine with a small amount of light or neutral oak aging.
• Characteristics - Pinot Gris can be classified in two different styles:
• Light-bodied - This style is usually light, crisp and clean with high acidity and flavors and aromas of green apples, citrus rinds, wet stone and sometimes a slight metallic character.
• Medium-bodied - In this style, the wine has a rounder, more supple character with a slightly lower acidity and a toasted nut and mineral finish. Some versions have riper tropical, white peach and pink grapefruit aromas and flavors as well.
· Synonyms - Here is a listing of the different regional names for Pinot Gris:
- France: Pinot Burot, Gris Cordelier, Malvoisie
- Germany: Ruländer, Grauer Burgunder
- Italy: Pinot Grigio
- Switzerland: Malvoisie
- Hungary: Szürkebarat
Pinot Blanc
As another mutation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc is a true "white grape" varietal. Occuring later than Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris, the earliest records of this mutation appear in the Alsace region of France around the sixteenth century. In the early 1980's, most of what was thought to be Pinot Blanc in California vineyards were actually the varietal Melon. The same type of a mistaken identity could also be found in the vineyards of Europe where Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc were also misidentified as Pinot Blanc.
• Region - Perhaps the best known region for Pinot Blanc is the Alsace in France. Here, along with Pinot Gris, the varietal has gained a high level of reputation for creating crisp, balanced wines. Once again, in the United States, Oregon seems to be taking the lead in creating some of the best representations of the varietal in the country. Keep your eyes on the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, Canada as an up and coming region for the varietal. Like the rest of the Pinot family, Pinot Blanc prefers a cooler climate to assure high quality fruit.
• Winemaking - Being a truly white grape varietal, Pinot Blanc is usually fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks and cold fermented to maintain and preserve its fresh, clean flavors and aromas. Some producers have created versions with a "kiss" of wood aging, but the majority stay clear of oak barrels as if risks masking the delicate qualities of the wine. Perhaps the exception to this is the barrique-aged wines of the Baden region of Germany.
• Characteristics - Pinot Blanc has a tendency to resemble a mild, unwooded Chardonnay, with lighter flavors of citrus, green apple and melon, with hints of mineral and wet stone. In Austria, a sweet, botrytized version is a wonderful treat to the palate with its lemon meringue character.
• Synonyms - Here are a few of the other names that Pinot Blanc goes by:
- Germany: Weisser Burgunder, Clevener, Clävner, Weisser Ruländer, Weisser Arbst.
- Italy: Pinot Bianco
- Austria: Weissburgunder
- Eastern Europe: Beli Pinot, Feherburgundi, Rouci Bile
Pinot Meunier
Although a red grape like Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier has a very distinct physical appearance and growing pattern. It's shoots has a very visible growth of white hairs that increase in numbers and density at the ends, making the tips appear white or silverish in color. The varietal has a high vigor than Pinot Noir and usually produces higher yields as well. While the first crop is harvested mostly for sparkling wine production, a second crop is also consistently produced and can be harvested for still wine production about two to three weeks after the primary clusters are picked.
• Region - Pinot Meunier is one of three primary varietals in the Champagne region of France. Along with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, these varietals are used exclusively in by the Sparkling Wine Houses of Champagne. Small quantities are produced in California, Australia, New Zealand for sparkling wine production and Austria, Germany and Switzerland for red wine production.
• Winemaking - In sparkling wine production, the juice is usually pressed with no skin contact during fermentation, creating in essence, a dry, highly acidic white base wine. For red wine production, the berries are usually cold soaked, like Pinot Noir to help extract pigmentation and tannins. Rosés form the varietal are common in Austria and Switzerland.
• Characteristics - Pinot Meunier does not have the intensity and complexity that it's sibling, Pinot Noir has. It also does not have the longevity in aging and is usually meant to be consumed as a young, light red wines. Strawberry, raspberry, sour cherry, spice and some minerality are common aromas and flavors.
• Synonyms - Pinot Meunier is know simply as Meunier in France. Here are a few other names for the varietal:
- Germany: Müller-Traube, Schwarzriesling
- Australia: Miller's Burgundy
- England: Dusty Miller